On Board with Mark Corke

A Guide to Boat Fiberglass Care: Cleaning, Oxidation Removal, and Polishing

My Grand Banks 32; not bad for 35-year-old gelcoat. It took me a whole day from start to finish to get the boat to this level of gloss.

Introduction

I know I have covered looking after gelcoat before, but this is the perfect time for a recap now that winter is just around the corner and many boats will be getting hauled.

Proper fiberglass care is essential to keep your vessel looking its best and ensure its longevity. This guide will walk you through the necessary steps, tools, and materials for cleaning removing oxidation through wet sanding, and compounding, polishing, and waxing your boat's fiberglass surfaces. Whether you're a seasoned sailor or a novice boat owner, this comprehensive guide will help you maintain your boat's pristine appearance.

Tools and Materials Required

Before you begin, gather the following tools and materials:

Pressure Washer: A high-quality pressure washer helps remove dirt and grime efficiently.

Soft Bristle Brush: Use a soft brush to scrub the fiberglass without scratching the surface.

Boat Soap: Choose a boat-specific soap that's gentle on fiberglass.

Bucket: For mixing and applying boat soap.

Hose: To rinse off soap and debris.

Microfiber Towels: For drying the boat and for later steps.

Wet/Dry Sandpaper: Choose various grits (e.g., 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000) for wet sanding.

Water Sprayer Bottle: To keep the surface wet while sanding.

Dual Action Polisher/Buffer: A professional-grade buffer like the DeWalt 9-inch polisher is ideal.Manufacturer link here

Compounding Pad: Use foam or wool pads for compounding.

Polishing Pad: Foam or wool pads are suitable for polishing as well.

Marine Compound: Opt for a high-quality marine compound like 3M Super Duty Compound.

Marine Polish: A top-rated marine polish such as Meguiar's M4516 is a great choice.

Marine Wax: Select a marine wax like Collinite 925 for long-lasting protection.

Applicator Pads: Soft foam applicator pads are necessary for applying compound, polish, and wax.

Cleaning 

Before applying any compounds or polishes, it is essential that the boat is clean, or you'll just be rubbing dirt into the gelcoat.

Start by rinsing the boat with a pressure washer to remove loose dirt and debris.

Mix boat soap with water in a bucket and gently scrub the fiberglass surface with a soft bristle brush.

Rinse thoroughly to remove all soap residue.

Dry the boat using microfiber towels to prevent water spots.

Removing Oxidation by Wet Sanding: only needed if the boat is heavily oxidized.

Soak the sandpaper in water for a few minutes.

Begin with the highest grit sandpaper (e.g., 2000) and only use a coarser grade if absolutely necessary.

Sand the oxidized areas in a circular motion.

Keep the surface wet with a water sprayer bottle.

Rinse and dry the boat thoroughly.

Compounding, Polishing, and Waxing

Attach a compounding pad to your dual action polisher/buffer.

Apply a small amount of marine compound to the pad.

Work in small sections, applying moderate pressure and moving the buffer in a side-to-side and up-and-down motion.

Wipe off excess compound with a microfiber towel.

Switch to a polishing pad and apply marine polish in the same manner as compounding.

After polishing, apply marine wax using applicator pads in circular motions.

Allow the wax to haze, then buff it off with a clean microfiber towel for a brilliant shine.

Foam Pads vs. Wool Pads

Foam Pads: Foam pads are gentler on the surface and are ideal for light compounding, polishing, and waxing. They are less aggressive and are suitable for maintaining well-maintained fiberglass.

Wool Pads: Wool pads are more aggressive and are often used for heavy compounding to remove deep oxidation and scratches. They can be followed by foam pads for polishing and waxing.

In conclusion, maintaining your boat's fiberglass requires careful attention and the right tools and materials. Regular cleaning, wet sanding for oxidation removal, and compounding, polishing, and waxing will keep your boag stunning and protect it from the elements. With the right products and techniques, you can ensure your boat remains a source of pride for years to come.

The Importance of Properly Connecting Boat Battery Chargers: A Guide to Promariner and More

 

Introduction

When it comes to boating, ensuring the longevity and reliability of your boat's battery system is paramount. One key overlooked aspect is boat battery chargers' proper installation and use. In this blog post, we'll dive into the importance of connecting boat battery chargers correctly and discuss the potential pitfalls of cheaper chargers with limited options. Additionally, we'll provide a checklist of things to consider when purchasing a marine battery charger.

The Significance of Proper Connection

Before delving into specific products and charger types, let's emphasize why connecting boat battery chargers properly is crucial. Your boat's electrical system heavily relies on the batteries, whether for starting the engine, running essential equipment, or providing power for various onboard electronics. Properly maintained batteries ensure a worry-free boating experience and can even be a matter of safety in emergencies.

Promariner is a well-established marine industry brand known for its high-quality battery chargers and related products. Promariner's chargers are designed with boaters in mind and are my preferred choice, although I wish they would make something larger than a 60 amp output. (Incidentally, I am not getting anything for promoting their products.) Here's how you should install a charger:

Mounting: Secure the charger in a well-ventilated location and away from direct exposure to water, moisture, and extreme temperatures. Never mount a charger directly over the battery(ies).

Wiring: Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully when connecting the charger to your boat's electrical system. Typically, you'll need to connect the positive and negative leads to the battery terminals or bus bars - if installed on your boat. Don't forget to install fuses in the cables that connect to the batteries. I use the block fuses that connect directly to the batteries, but ANL fuses are another acceptable alternative. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations as to the correct size and type. The attached diagram shows just one method of connecting up the charger. Although Promariner says that you will get total output when only one cable is connected, as shown, I like to daisy chain all three connections together.

 

AC Power: Connect the charger to the boat's AC power source following ABYC guidelines. Ensure proper grounding to prevent electrical hazards. If you are unsure of your abilities, consult a professional.

Multi-Stage Charging: Promariner chargers feature multi-stage charging, including bulk, absorption, and float stages. These stages optimize battery health by delivering the correct charge at the right time and prolonging battery life.

Not the best picture I know but the two displaays show voltage on the left and charging amps on the right, both useful in monitoring battery condition that many other chargers lack. Below the displays are various monitoring LED's that show such things as type of battery, whether the carger is in bulk, absorbtion or float stages. One very useful function of the charger is that is can be used as a power source even when there are no batteries on the boat. Ideal for checking circuits in the off seson when batteries maay have been removed from the boaat for the winter. Incidentally, a plug in remote monitor is available which makes hanging upside down in the engine room uncessary! Installed after this picture was taken.

 

The Pitfalls of Cheaper Battery Chargers

While budget-friendly battery chargers with limited settings may seem cost-effective, they can harm your batteries in the long run. Any battery charger that comes with alligator battery clips will almost certainly fall into this category and is unlikely to be ignition-protected, a must, especially in gasoline-powered boats. Many cheaper chargers have only three positions: AGM, Flooded, and Gel. Here's why this can be problematic:

Inaccurate Charging: Battery types vary, and using a charger with limited options can lead to overcharging or undercharging, causing premature battery failure.

Battery Damage: AGM, Flooded, and Gel batteries have specific charging requirements. Using the wrong setting can lead to damage, reduced capacity, and a shorter lifespan.

Lack of Optimization: Cheaper chargers often lack advanced charging algorithms that can maximize battery performance and health.

Checklist for Purchasing a Marine Battery Charger

When shopping for a marine battery charger, consider the following factors:

Battery Compatibility: Ensure the charger is compatible with your battery type (AGM, Flooded, Gel, etc.) and capacity.

Multi-Stage Charging: Look for chargers with multi-stage charging capabilities to optimize battery health.

Amperage: Choose a charger with an appropriate amperage output for your battery bank size.

Durability: Opt for a charger built with marine-grade materials to withstand the harsh boating environment.

Safety Features: Check for features like reverse polarity protection, overcharge protection, and short-circuit protection.

Brand Reputation: Consider reputable brands like Promariner, with a history of producing reliable marine chargers.

Conclusion

Properly connecting your boat battery charger is vital to ensure the longevity and reliability of your boat's electrical system. Avoid the pitfalls of cheaper chargers with limited settings, as they can harm your batteries and cost you dearly in the long run.

 

 

 

No, the photo isn't flipped.  With a charger mounted like this air will be unable to circulate and cool the charger. Although these chargers have fans built in proper installation will ensure long life for both charger and batteries.

How to Keep Your Boat Running Smoothly: A Guide to Changing Your Raw Water Pump Impeller

I know I have covered it before, but I recently changed the water pump impeller in my generator and thought it worth going over a few things.

When it comes to boat water pump impellers, there are a few key things you need to know. You don't need many tools, and any handy boat owner will likely have all that is needed. However, there is one tool that makes things more accessible, and that is the impeller puller. I have used a could of well-padded screwdrivers to lever the old impeller out. It works, but you need to be careful not to damage the pump housing, which is easy to do and will lead to leaks and, perhaps, a costly replacement pump.

I have two raw after pumps on Seaglass, one for the main propulsion engine and a second for the generator. Of the two, the generator is far and away the more difficult of the two to service. The generator engine is a three-cylinder Yanmar which will be familiar to many readers; they are used both as generator engines and the main motive power on smaller launches and sailboats. The best advice I can give you if you have one of these engines is to remove the pump for service. The cover plate faces away from the front of the engine and is almost impossible to service with removal. This may seem a bit drastic but believe me, it will be far faster in the end and will save your temper and most likely lose the tiny screws that hold the cover plate in place from ending up in the bilge, never being seen again.

THE PULLER IN USE.

 

One crucial aspect is the impeller puller, a tool specifically designed to remove the impeller from the water pump housing. This tool helps make changing an impeller much easier and more efficient.

Every engine and installation is different, so this is a general guide and refers to Yanmar engines in particular. You will need a few tools to change an impeller, including wrenches or socket sets, pliers, fallen wrenches, and the impeller puller. The first step is to locate the water pump housing on your boat's engine. Once located, you can remove any necessary parts or covers to access the impeller.

Carefully remove bolts or screws securing the water pump housing using your wrench or socket set. With the housing removed, use the correct size Allen wrench to remove the set screws that allow the cover plate to come off. Sometimes it is stuck in place, and the edge of a craft knife is a handy tool to break the seal between the gasket, plate, and pump housing.

 

With the impeller exposed, use the puller to withdraw the old impeller, then clean up the pump housing, removing any old gasket fragments. Some pumps have an O ring instead; if so, remove this and discard it.

Getting the new impeller in place can be challenging; my go-to method is to wrap a plastic cable tie around the blades, squashing them down so the impeller can be slid into place. Use dishwashing liquid or glycerin as a lubricant to help the impeller slide in. Once the impeller is half inserted, cut the cable tie off and push it in, ensuring the cut out on the boss or splines aligns with the spindle. When the impeller is well seated, the cover can be replaced using the new O ring or gasket that can with the kit.

AVAILABLE AT THE PHARMACY, GLYCERIN IS PERFECT AT HELPING SLIDE THE NEW IMPELLER INTO PLACE

Finally, reassemble any parts or covers that were removed earlier and secure them back into place using your wrench or socket set. Double-checking for proper installation before starting your boat's engine is always a good idea.

 

WITHOUT REMOVING THE PUMP, THOSE SETSCREWS ARE SO EASY TO LOSE IN THE BILGE! (note the black burn mark on the housing, likely the result of  overheating at some time in the past)

By understanding how an impeller puller works and having access to the necessary tools, changing a boat water pump impeller becomes a manageable task for any boat owner or enthusiast.

Best boat carpet

As part of the overall refurbishment of the interior of Seaglass, Rita and I wanted to make the interior more 'homey.' Although we love the abundance of teak in our Grand Banks, it can be a little overwhelming, plus taking care of it also takes considerable time to keep it looking fresh and new. This is especially true of parquet flooring, which gets a lot of wear during the year. Although we take our shoes off when we enter the salon, the cabin sole can take a bit of a beating. There can't be many GB owners out there that don't have some rug, mat, or runner to add a splash 0f color and make the cabin sole easier on bare feet.

Uncertain as to precisely what we should do to the boat's interior, we called in Kate Seremeth, who runs Tack Studios in Maine. She has extensive experience working on yacht interiors and was a delight to work with; and would heartily recommend her services if you are thinking of sprucing up your boat's interior or going for a complete do-over. 

Amongst the other thing,  Kate suggested the use of a fitted rug. She also suggested working with Colonial Mills,s who weave rugs out of Sunbrella material. Ubiquitous with yachts, there can't be many boat owners who have not used or at least come in contact with, Sunbrella at some time. Most known for fabrics for awnings, covers, and cushions, the Sunbrella material that the rugs are woven from is far softer and has a look, somewhat, of woven sisal but feels so much better underfoot. 

Rather than buy a rectangular rug that fit the space, the lovely folks at Colonial Mills offered to make a bespoke one that would fit the space perfectly -- all I had to do was make the templates. 

 

As you can see in the picture,s I made the template from stiff building paper,r and this was later transferred to Tyvek so that I knew that the template would not tear or distort, leaving me with the wrong size carpet or worse. If you look closely at the images above and below,w you will see a line drawn in black Sharpie a half inch from the edge. This is an important step and makes completing an accurate temple much easier. Basically,y the technique is this; you cut the template almost the right size but deliberately undersized by a small amount. This saves your time and your temper, as you are not trying to cut it accurately at this stage. With the paper pattern then taped in position,n you use a straight edge of known width and, as in this case with the spacer pressed against the woodwork at the floor's edge,e mark a line, which is the one you see above.

 

Here's a close-up shot of the technique in action. Then when I got home,e I laid out a large sheet of Tyvek, taped the brown paper template on it,p and once again lined my spacer along the black lines I made when I was on the boat, and voila, a perfect facsimile of the wooden sole. Even s,o as it was,s I spent several hours making the templates -- first the brown paper and then the Tyvek that I sent to Colonial Mills. Rita and I chose an aqua colo,r but there are almost a limitless amount of colors to choose from, so if you are not replacing the upholstery I was we were,e then you are sure to be able to get something to coordinate.

 

Overall I think the carpet looks great; it's hardwearing and has stood up well. Best of all,l it is somewhat unique,e and it draws admiring glances from jealous owners when we have attended Grand Bank's get-together. You will also notice the edges are whipped to prevent unraveling,g and this,s plus the overall weight of the carpet, keeps it lying flat on the floor. If I have one regret,t it is that I had some cutouts put in the carpet to allow the two table legs to make contact with the floor. If I did it again,n I think that I would have gotten four holes cut to allow the removable bolts that hold the table in place to pass through and allowed the table to sit on top of the carpet; the bolts would have helped hold the carpet in place and it may have looked a little neater. But then, I may be being overcritical of my choice. But judge for yourself and let me know what you think.

 

Teak Swim Platform

Below is a video that I very recently posted. Only when I was editing it did I realize I did not mention that I used Gorilla glue. Available from Home Depot and other hardware stores, I really like this glue, but with some caveats. Where you really need something never to come apart, there is no substitute for epoxy with some thickening or filler powder depending on the application. But as in the video here, Gorilla glue is ideal as it can be squirted out of the bottle and, depending on the temperature, will set up in relatively short order allowing work to continue without waiting overnight for the glue to set up, as would be the case with epoxy. 

It is essential to read and heed the instructions on the bottle regarding the correct application technique and safety instructions. I have found that it is tough to remove if you get glue on your fingers or skin. Washing your hand under the tap only makes the glue set up faster as it is a moisture activated. It is always best to wear disposable gloves. Finally, never put your fingers close to your face when using; I suffered severe eye irritation that was very painful even though I never actually got any glue into my eye. Just being close was enough to cause problems. A

Anyhow, I do hope that you enjoy the video and that you will comment either here or in the comments section below the video. More videos are coming soon.

 

 

LED lights redux

I’ve been big fan of LED lights for many years. I love that to all intents and purposes they have essentially an almost indefinite life and that makes them an almost fit and forget item but pushing them over voltage will damage them and lead to their demise.  Fortunately this is hard to do during the normal course of events but not impossible especially when running a 24 volt system and the battery charger is pushing out close to 28 volts . For sometime now I have been slowly replacing all the incandescent bulbs with LED’s and while in some cases the whole fixture has been changed as part of an all out upgrade of the boat’s interior — more on that later — other fixtures have benefited from merely swapping the bulb.

The light I’m holding in my hand here is a direct replacement for the 15 or 25 watt bulbs so often found on older boats reading and dome lights. I hate to quote a model number and then you order one as there are so many options to choose from. Not only are there myriad types and sizes of fittings but there are also choices when it comes to color temperature. This has nothing to do with how hot a bulb gets but refers to the hue of the light cast. The higher the number the cooler the light will appear. A cool white-often best for exterior applications, will have a temperature of about 6000 while a warm white, better for cabin interiors will be somewhere in the 4200 range.

LED’s tend to cost a fair bit more than an average incandescent so changing all the bulbs at once can be significant depending on the size of the boat and the number of fixtures. 

when looking for complete fittings I have found Imtra https://www.imtra.com/ excellent both in terms of choice and customer service but for those times when seeking a bulb I favor SuperbrightLED https://www.superbrightleds.com who offer a collosal choice with fast turnaround. 

Below you can see a comparison of a traditional bulb with an LED identical in almost every way save the actual light source, which in the traditional bulb on the left is hot wire that glows within a sealed sphere of inert gas and the LED which should be thought of a light source rather than a bulb in the traditional sense. 

If you are not convinced of the benefit of LED consider that 50,000 hour usable lifespan mentioned earlier and also the power consumption which is typically on fifth of a conventional bulb. About 90 percent of the power consumed by a traditional bulb is converted to heat so it warms the cabin a fair bit while producing light, almost as a byproduct. LED’s convert almost all energy to light with next to no heat generated, a significant consideration if you do a lot of boating in warm climates.

 

 

How to install underwater lights

 

Seaglass, all decked out with her new Aqualuma underwater lights.

Let's face it; there is no need to install underwater lights. They won't make your boat go any faster or handle better … but boy, do they look cool! I confess that I had shied away from putting underwater lights on my boat, thinking them a frivolous waste of time and money. I'd seen the large yachts at boat shows with the waterline all lit up, but thought that look wasn't for me — until someone gave me a couple as a gift. So I bit the bullet and installed them while my boat was hauled for some routine maintenance.

 Things you'll need (apart from the lights, of course!)

Tools:

• Pencil
• Tape measure
• Holesaw
• Electric drill
• Scraper
• Respirator

Materials:

• Lights
• Adhesive sealant or mastic
• Rags
• Sandpaper

Time: Two hours per light

Cost: $450 per light

Some transoms have a slight curvature. A generous bead of manufacturer-recommend mastic behind the mounting flange should care for any discrepancy between the two mounting surfaces.

When choosing underwater lights, you have many options— LED or tungsten. LED lights have a longer life than tungsten, don't get hot, and have lower power draw. These are all good reasons for picking LED. You'll also need to decide on the color of the emitted light: Generally, blue, green, or white are your options. Blue travels farthest in saltwater, green is best for freshwater, and white is best for attracting fish. Note that blue underwater lights are illegal in some places, so check local ordinances for your boating area.

My boat is solid fiberglass below the waterline, but your boat may not be. In that case, you will need to seal the core to prevent water intrusion (see "Cored Hull Care" below). Even if you have solid fiberglass, you'll need to seal the open edges of the hull cut with epoxy or another impervious coating to prevent possible water migration into unprotected glass should water seep past the light's seal.

Cored Hull Care

Fitting underwater lights in a cored hull presents some unique challenges and requires a little additional work. Although it may be tempting to simply drill a hole through the boat and fit the lights, water can find its way into the coring, eventually damaging the boat's structure.

If your boat has a cored hull, drill through as outlined in the step-by-step instructions in this article, then use a sharp instrument to dig out the coring material about an inch back all around from the edge of the hole. Vacuum and clean out the hole thoroughly. Mix up some epoxy and colloidal silica to a peanut butter consistency and force this into the void you created until it is even with the edge of the hole. Leave it overnight to cure, trim if needed, and finish the installation as outlined in this article.

Note, too, that normally you would install a backing pad behind any hull penetrations. In this case, the light manufacturer said this was unnecessary because the retaining nut is only hand-tight. Therefore pressure against the hull is minimal, and the light is effectively held in place with the special adhesive sealant mastic recommended in the instructions.

Follow The Rules

Don't let your boat's underwater lights confuse other boaters. The U.S. Coast Guard COLREGS (also known as the "Rules of the Road" for boaters) require that a boat avoid displaying any light that could be confused as another navigation light or another vessel. And remember, flashing blue lights are reserved for law enforcement. At a distance, wave action combined with the steady rocking of below-the-waterline high-intensity blue lights can give the appearance of a police vessel.

In addition to the steps below, a large portion of the work time will be taken up with the wiring. Be sure to follow the recommendations with your lights concerning wire- and circuit breaker sizing.

 

1. Carefully measure and mark the light's center position on the outside of the boat with a pencil. Placement is likely to be a compromise between the ideal and the possible. Go inside the boat and check the inside of the hull to ensure that there are no structural members or wiring or anything else in the way that could impact the placement. Recheck it to make sure. Consider, too, that you will have to be able to reach the back of the lamp for installation and service. Don't position lights too close to exhaust outlets or other existing penetrations.

2. After double-checking your measurements, chuck a 1/8-inch drill bit into an electric drill and drill through the hull on the marks you made in the previous step. Remove the drill bit from the chuck, but leave it in the hole so you can easily see on the inside of the boat where the final larger hole will be. If you measured correctly, carry on. If not, remember that it's much easier to repair a small hole than a larger one!

3. Use a hole saw of the correct diameter to cut the hole, using the smaller hole as a guide for the drill bit. Use a slow speed and apply firm pressure to the drill. My lights needed a 2-3/8-inch hole, but other lights may require a different size. Again, refer to the instructions that came with your lights.

4. Clean up any rough spots around the hole with sandpaper. Then, after wiping the hole and the inside of the transom with acetone to remove any residual dirt and grease, brush on some epoxy resin to seal the edge. Once the epoxy has dried, feed the cables into the hole and test fit the light. Draw around the circumference of the light fitting with a pencil.

5. Remove the light, then use a scraper to remove any antifouling inside the line back to the original gelcoat. Use a clean rag to wipe the scraped area with acetone to remove surface contaminants.

6. Feed the cables back through the hole. Apply a generous bead of adhesive sealant — according to manufacturer recommendations — around the flange of the light and press it into position. Scrape or wipe off excess sealant.

7. On the inside of the boat, screw on the retaining nut, then route the wires and connect them to a suitable switch or breaker. (The correct size will be given in the instructions.) Double check all your work before turning on the light.

Before Drilling That Hole, Stop And Think!

No one likes drilling holes in their boat — especially below the waterline — but sometimes it's necessary. Before you crank up the drill, ensure you know exactly where you want the hole (measure twice, drill once), and be certain that you know what's behind where you're drilling. In one case, an owner was drilling a hole to install a battery box and accidentally drilled into a diesel fuel tank, spilling a couple of gallons of smelly fuel into the bilge (consider if it had been a gasoline tank!). 

Top Boating Videos of 2021

I'm happy to report that a couple of my videos came top of the list of  BoatUS' most-watched in 2021 and are embedded below for your viewing pleasure. Repairing gelcoat is a common boat owner task, but it requires more than just filling in small spider cracks. “How to Spray Gelcoat on a Boat Using a Preval Sprayer,” which shows how to make professional gelcoat repairs over a larger area, was the most-watched new BoatUS video of 2021, from BoatUS Magazine. The second most-watched video on the list, “Bilge Pump Not Working? Here’s How To Troubleshoot the Problem” proves that even in this technological era, boaters continue to be vexed with the age-old issue of keeping water out of the boat.

 

 

 

 

Cheap and effective spray booth

I have recently been working on some upgrades for the boat's headliner. A full video will be coming soon but in the meantime I thought that I would share the process that I have been using to spray the wooden strips.

The original headliner for the Grand Banks series of classic yachts was a sort of perforated vinyl material of the sort that might be found on a 1950's vintage Chevvy. Over the years this had suffered from rips and discoloration and I decided that it was well due for replacement. Apart from the general wear and tear I also wanted to upgrade the lights and add speakers for the stereo, neither of which would be possible without changing out the headliner. In short, I have gone for a painted wooden headliner which allows easy installation of the new lights and speakers. 

I wanted to paint the tongue and groove strips I had machined up before I installed them as painting them in place would be next to impossible. I could have painted them with a brush I suppose but spraying gives a far better finish and is faster once the necessary spray equipment is set up. Initially I did think about setting up some sort of poly tent in the garage but then by chance came across an 8 man tent for $100 in Walmart, far easier and almost cheaper than any home made contraption. The end farthest from the opening door has a ready made mesh winder which is perfect for a box fan. A  furnace filter stops the overspray from going everywhere and in all the tent works better than I could have hoped. The strips are more that 12 feet long and they fit easily inside the tent, plus once the job is complete I can pack up the tent into its bag and save it for next time. The pictures and video below give a flavor of just how capable the whole system is. For the actual spraying I'm using a Groco airless sprayer which, when correctly set up, produces almost perfect results.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to varnish boat handrails

Following on from my last blog post, which you can see here, with Rita's help I made a short video today. I think this gives a better overall idea of the poor state that the varnish is currently in and how I am approaching the job. The side handrails were stripped and revarnished a couple of years back, and then I got sick and was unable to finish the job and instead of getting any maintenance coats the varnish suffered from UV damage bringing it to the poor state that it is in right now. The back end of the boat has suffered badly in the sun – but that's the beauty of teak you can bring it back good as new. Be sure to check back often as I'll bring regular updates on the progress and give you some helpful hints and tips.

Feel free to leave a comment or question, either on this blog or below the video.